The ocean has been in my bones since I was barely able to walk. Hanging from my mother’s hands, sixty-something years ago, I laughed ear to ear as the sea rushed over my sandy feet and brought more joy than any toy.
I rode my first wave 12 years later and set into motion a permanent need to be near the ocean and ride her waves. My brother, Allen, was my partner for the first few years, and when possible, still is.
The action shot is Huntington Cliffs on New Years Day circa 1975. A perfect day with my brother; blue sky, nice waves, an offshore breeze, and a photographer friend with film and a long lens.
But 8 years ago my low-back and my left shoulder came rushing in to tell me my surfing days were done. And I believed it. I said it would be alright, but found a hole that none of my other interests could completely fill.
This year I found Stand Up Paddleboarding. It has given me new life. I’m doing yoga to get fit and reclaim my balance. Paddling to the waves to build my strength.
My wife, Donna, got a SUP this year for her birthday. We paddle together for fun and adventure. Our home looks out onto Linda Mar beach.
I’m grateful for my life. I look forward to tomorrow’s sunrise and a chance to get back in the water.
Perhaps Stand Up Paddleboarding could be part of your life too.
SUP DAYS are better than others 
Very cool site, Tom. My first thought was that you had submitted an article for an ongoing stand-up paddle board site. Then I realized the whole thing is yours. Writer, photographer, long time surfer, and now a place to share your new passion. A perfect fit!
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Great Blog Tom. Love the pic of you and your bro when you were young. Great that you can get back on the board after your injuries. There is hope yet. Keep writing. It’s beautiful and inspiring. Love, Anik
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I love your reading your blog even if I’m quiet! I was recently nominated for the Infinity Dreams Award (my first experience with these awards) and want to nominate you as well! If you’re interested in participating, please visit my website for further information: https://stuffhomemade.wordpress.com/2015/12/05/the-infinity-dreams-award/
Keep up the good work!
-Sabrina
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Thanks for the nomination but I have my hands quite full now. Doing the Blogging 201 class and my usual holiday workload. Thanks.
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I d love to try this Stand Up Paddleboarding. I saw a few people doing it and it seems pretty cool. Pls the waves are so small on our island in the Philippines that it should not be too painful and discouraging .. Your blog is indeed very inspiring!
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AND YOUR WATER IS WARM….
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Oh yeah! 😉 in our current *winter season* it is about 25 C.. Far less waves and Xmas by the Coconut tree sounds far less credible to me. Can’t have it all 😉
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Hi, I nominated you for the “One Lovely Blog Award” here: https://klallendoerfer.wordpress.com/2016/01/04/one-lovely-blog-award-2/
It’s just for fun, if you do these things, not compulsory. I just wanted to acknowledge the happiness your blog has given me this year. Happy New Year!
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I love it. Thanks for thinking of me. I’ll respond to it by Wednesday after completing a couple of jobs for my video business.
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