A few years ago I thought my surfing days were behind me. Bad back, torn shoulder. But the beach was still a place of joy. A place to walk along the shore, take a few photos, get sand between my toes.
I shot this image into our beach-front Taco Bell on one of those days. Pedro Point and people chowing on tacos shows through while a solitary surfer reflects back.
I’ve surfed twice the past week. On a Stand Up Paddle Board (SUP) and am so grateful that a board is under my feet again. Every day I wake to check out the surf. And from time to time get to ride on it.
State of Mind
I love this stretch of coast. It can get pretty wild at high tide and quite tame at low tide. Late afternoon I took my camera for a walk. In case you missed it, yesterday I shot big surf video at the pier and challenged the camera’s reputation for being slash proof. It worked fine today for both stills and HD Video.
We call this area Boat Docks. Is sits at the base of an area called Pedro Point. It’s one of my favorite buildings in town. Today, toward sunset, the tide was low and returning. Gulls bathed in the fresh water from San Pedro Valley Creek as it emptied into the Pacific. This morning, at high tide, I would have been standing in 3 feet of water taking this shot.
The ocean is big today. It was bigger yesterday. The water is a good 10 degrees colder than it was in September. Fall is here. Winter is coming. I’ve been fighting a bug which has kept me from the water. But I still need a fix to overcome my hopeless addiction to the ocean’s charm. Whether it’s a walk on the beach or making a short video of the current conditions, it’s all about the ocean, its size, its smell, its moods.