A few years ago I thought my surfing days were behind me. Bad back, torn shoulder. But the beach was still a place of joy. A place to walk along the shore, take a few photos, get sand between my toes.
I shot this image into our beach-front Taco Bell on one of those days. Pedro Point and people chowing on tacos shows through while a solitary surfer reflects back.
I’ve surfed twice the past week. On a Stand Up Paddle Board (SUP) and am so grateful that a board is under my feet again. Every day I wake to check out the surf. And from time to time get to ride on it.
State of Mind
We have surf right in front of our world famous Taco Bell. It might be the only Taco Bell on the planet built on the beach. It has stunning views, and at high tide, during a large swell, the surf might flow under the building. But let’s discuss soft top boards, not soft shell tacos.
I saw this guy heading out to surf with a soft top board, like those pictured above, but his was white with blue stripes. Soft tops are the board of choice for most surf schools, since they soften the inevitable fall. I assumed, therefore, that the guy was a beginner.
During the next half hour I put my new camera through its paces. This is the camera that got drenched during my close encounter with large waves at the pier this past Thursday. It seems to be functioning quite well.
There were close ups of gulls posing beside the terminus of San Pedro Valley Creek and surf scoters gliding effortlessly over the low tide swell. The guy on the white and blue board, who was hardly a beginner, gave me a handfull of fun waves.