Yesterday I read a blog post from Real Surfers. It was the first surfing blog I followed. For one the guy, Erwin Dence, has a great sense of humor, but two, which maybe is actually one, he’s a fantastic artist. The image above is from his web site. There’s more where that came from.
But yesterday wasn’t about Art. It was about waves, or better stated, the absence of waves. He and his buddies got Skunked, though it sounds like maybe there were some bitty waves. At the same time, my backyard, Pacifica, CA, had huge waves. Too big for me. I’m looking forward to our surf waning a bit, which it appears to be doing. Maybe the next swell will hit the northwest where Real Surfers is based.
But check out the drawings in this post. This is what drew me to Real Surfers
You’ll find me at the beach, or thinking of the beach. Waxing my board. Looking at the surf. Deciding which break to ride. I’m a surfer, but I don’t say it out loud. Not like the guys who wear tan jeans, blue pocket tees and black low-top Converse All-Stars. They have tans with blond hair and cruise the boulevard with their boards hanging out the back of their mommy’s new station wagons. Most of them don’t surf. Those that do can’t stand up and turn. We call them hodads. Continue reading
I surfed today via Stand Up Paddle Boarding which is what got me into blogging. I’ve published 30 posts without really knowing more than write what I want to write. None of the pieces were long, and most included photos, since I love photography and find that photos tell a good part of my story.
In many of the posts I’ve included video, see below, since I do video for a living. And most posts are about Stand Up Paddle Boarding but sometimes it’s a stretch, like a post I did about Fenway Park while visiting Boston last month. But now it’s time to learn to blog from the helpful folks at WordPress.com, and my fellow Blogging 101 classmates including @michelleweber, @chrissiepollock
and @aisajib .
I live on the coast, about 15 minutes from San Francisco. I have a wife, two kids and a cat. We see the surf from the back of our home. My oldest son and his wife are about to bring us our first grand child who’s a girl that I nicknamed Sprocket. I’m a lucky man. Yes I am.
My brother, Allen, and I hadn’t surfed together in maybe 15 years until day before yesterday. We got wet at Ventura Point. Me on my SUP, Allen on his Walden long board. The wind-blown waves were barely rideable but we both caught a few. My brother, at 66, is still fluid on his longboard.
We celebrated our dad’s 95th birthday for three days. We saw whales from Mugu Rock. I think they were humpbacks but they were way off shore toward the Channel Island chain. We ate out. We watched TV game shows. We got him a new phone. We spent time just catching up.
Bev and Allen put out the big birthday spread with fresh corn on the cob, enchiladas, tri-tip, salad, carrot cake and ice cream. Cousin Jon and wife Jamie joined in the celebration.
I look forward to tomorrow’s ride north along the Santa Barbara coast. Hope there’s energy to finish the drive along the Santa Cruz coast
Happy Birthday Poppie.
And of course there’s a highlight video.