Donna and I celebrated on the eve of our 30th. We paddled around Hanalei Bay on the north shore of Kauai. We rented 10-6 Laird Hamilton SUPS. They are big and heavy, but I caught my share of waves at the reef and Donna paddled to the end of the Hanalei River. I took a little break, ate a cookie, then paddled up the river to find her. That’s what I do. Find Donna.
There were fish, turtles, herons, egrets, flowers, rain, and DONNA. I found her just below the bridge. We paddled back in the rain to another stunning sunset. Even caught a few outrigger canoe teams working their stuff. Check out the scene with this 1 minute video.
30th Anniversary SUP from Tom Adams on Vimeo.
My son, Matthew, and I surfed into sunset on summer solstice. We used to do this every year, but I wasn’t surfing last year, or the seven preceding years for that matter. But then I got into SUP. Then SUP surfing. So Matthew and I planned an outing for Tuesday evening, not realizing that the actual solstice was Monday, but hey, we were close.
We got in the water about 7:30, and got out just before 9. The sun had set, and we had wide grins. My wife, Donna, was there to greet her lads. Matthew, by the way, had never surfed a SUP, but he’s a fitness trainer at Empowered Fitness, has great balance, used to surf a long board with grace and agility, and boy did he take to SUP Surfing like a duck to water. Check it out.
SOLSTICE SUP SURFING from Tom Adams on Vimeo.
It’s been at least two weeks since I stepped foot in the surf. The waves have been large and unruly but it rained which is good. My ten week workshop with the San Francisco Writers Studio has been fulfilling. This class ends Tuesday. I signed up for the next one which starts in two weeks. Between now and then I plan to publish some of the work I’ve done in the class.
Yesterday I got wet and it solidified the notion that SUP days are better than others. Even though I lost my footing more than once, I caught waves and paddled the length of the beach. After an hour session I left the water with a clear head and sore muscles.
So why the title African SUP? Watch the one minute video: It’s the music.
This afternoon I walked the beach to greet the incoming swell that will pump through Mavericks tomorrow. It’s not expected to be the gargantuan size that they sometimes get, but a 20 foot face would certainly get my chest thumping.
Today, with an outgoing tide and plenty of shore birds, I got a few SUPs against some crisp jazz. Enjoy.
One of my Bay Area friends posted this clip on Facebook yesterday. It’s from a group called The Inertia. I watched it twice, then showed it to my wife. I’ll watch it again.
For one, the guy is so graceful, but the dogs. OMG the dogs are adorable. And the wave is way longer than the rides I usually get. Way longer.
My goal is to be as relaxed and balanced as this guy, but without the dogs.
The ocean is big today. It was bigger yesterday. The water is a good 10 degrees colder than it was in September. Fall is here. Winter is coming. I’ve been fighting a bug which has kept me from the water. But I still need a fix to overcome my hopeless addiction to the ocean’s charm. Whether it’s a walk on the beach or making a short video of the current conditions, it’s all about the ocean, its size, its smell, its moods.
Anything can happen as a wave closes out. With paddle bracing the wave for balance this Stand Up Paddleboarder keeps his eyes peeled for his next move.